History of Jewellery.


Since very beginning of human history, jewellery became a very important part of our life's. We see people wearing jewellery every day. We use jewellery for auspicious and symbolic purposes such as engagement rings and spiritual amulets. But the primary usage of jewelry nowadays is of course for a person to look more beautiful, to be recognised or to show their status in our society. The more expensive and rare jewellery a person has, he or she is automatically assumed to be richer, and therefore more respected.
But do we ever ask ourselves, where did all rings, pendants, bracelets and necklaces come from. What is their history? Is there some kind of story behind these tiny, but highly treasured pieces of stone and metal?
            Jewellery, or jewelry is the word that came from an old Latin language. Jewellery is pronounced "jocale" in Latin. "Jocale" means "plaything".
         The first known jewellery is believed to be used by the Homo sapiens in Africa. This first jewelry was made from snail shells. These shells were forming a crude necklace, dating more than 75,000 years ago.
There were plenty of other examples of prehistoric jewellery found in Russia and Middle East etc. They all dated to the very beginning of our human evolution.  
        However, The actual examples of established jewellery making were found about 3,000-5,000 years b.c. in Egypt. Egyptians is the race, which was known as rich and luxurious. It is no surprise that the first jewelry production took place in Egypt. Jewellery in Egypt symbolized power, and was worn by the most respected and wealthy. People, who wore the jewelry in life, were also buried with it when they died.
      Although Egyptians were extremely rich, and had access to different kinds of gemstones, they preferred glass to be planted into their golden rings, necklaces and pendants, for they preferred the shine and colour of glass over gemstones.
          In ancient Greece the art of jewelry making got further development, all the kinds of crafts such as casting, chasing, engraving, enamelling were widely used with exceptional craftsmanship. In those times people used to decorate with jewelry not only face or body but also armour, horses, furniture and even walls.
        In Roman Empire the art of jewellery reached enormous popularity and high level, for example the imperator Nero had build entire house of gold. When the Roman Empire collapsed, the jewelry craft in Europe faded, and centre of jewellery trade had moved to East to Bizanty, where art became more decorative and colourful rather than reach. The eastern craftsmen widely used enamel, semi-precious stones and filigree.
           In Europe art of jewelry and silversmithing got new breath around 10 century mostly in England and Germany. Till 14 cent. The church was main customer of gold and silversmiths, beautiful ritual vessels, figurines of Christ and Virgin Mary and other ritual items were crafted of gold and silver. Since 15 cent. The luxury items spread among reach people, silver and gold decorated armour, cutlery and silverware became usual attribute of noble public. The high art of gothic was forgotten, floral and fruit motives became in fashion, goblets, dishes and other tableware was bread and butter for medieval jeweller. However some jewellers used to collaborate with fine artists and created real masterpieces especially in enamel painting craft. For example famous german artist Albrecht Dourer was the jeweller himself.
            I early 19 cent. In France the emperor Napoleon gave huge popularity for cameo jewellery, cameos were carved from everything, even from glass. The nobility of Paris used to wear matching sets of jewelry called "parure". The full parure included comb and tiara; set of necklace, earrings and bracelets was called "half-parure", they were accomplished in neo-classical style.
            First mass-produced jewelry appeared in England in Victorian period with centre in Birmingham. The Victorian jewelry started to be similar as we got used to see nowadays, mostly gold and diamond jewellery with rose and round brilliant cut diamonds, the cross and snake motives were popular. Victorian jewellers used to combine silver and gold, with silver on the top to emphasise clarity of diamond. Today white gold is used for the same purpose.
            As an alternative to machine-produced jewelry arose the Arts and crafts movement. Artistic style, individuality and philosophy were typical for adornments created by followers of this movement. Unlike the Victorian mainstream gold-diamond items, they used semi-precious gemstones and preferred cabochon cut rather than faceted stones. It was, seems to be first designer jewellery.
            The Arts and crafts movement gave birth to beautiful Art Nouveau style, organic and nature motives, gracious and asymmetric dominated in this style. Quite often the artists used stylish female figure and leaves motive.
           But live still went on, everything around was changing so did jewellery. Geometric shapes, linear design and corners came to fashion in 1940-s. Big, massive stones, surrounded by multiple diamonds set in yellow gold were popular during all the Vintage period. New materials as a plastic and bakelite were widely used in custom jewelry. Dynamic, laconic style and abstract motives dominated till 1970-s.
           In 1970-s people preferred ethnic motives, east, and India inspired design. Ornamental, folk-style adornments became popular. Colourful cabochon cut stones, silver and basic metals were used. Forgotten corals came back and had huge popularity. Wristwatches became part of jewelry art.
           1980-s brought another direction in design and fashion. The metal itself, not a gemstone, came to scene and played major role. Link bracelets and chains with soft rounded geometry, twisted necklaces, plates of multicolour gold, all this in great Italian style- that is jewellery of 1980-s.
           Big yellow gold surfaces and massive shapes faded in 1990-s, white gold and platinum, white and black colour diamonds came to fashion. Delicate sized tasteful earrings and rings usually in white gold became common. However ethnic and Indian motives came back from 1970-s especially in custom jewellery. Creative animal or fish figurines spread with small pave set gemstones usually in white gold were typical for this period.
          One word can define the jewelry of 21-st century that word is - eclectic. All styles are acceptable, yellow gold slowly coming back. Technology of rapid prototyping and 3d modelling allows create anything and reproduce it in metal. Custom jewellery reaches very high quality and low price. Supermarkets sell jewelry next to vegetables. That is what we can see in 2000-s.
              



 
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